A brief history of Man Made Gemstones

Imitations of gemstones

Attempts to imitate natural gemstones have been made since before the time of Christ.  The Egyptians were the first to mimic the valuable stones with glass and glazing.  In 1758 a Viennese, Joseph Strasser, developed a type of glass which could be cut and which looked similar to a diamond.  Although the production and sales of these imitations called Strass, were prohibited, they did eventually find their way into the European trade.

Czechoslovakia was an important center for the glass-jewellery industry in the 19th century.  For costume jewellery, cheap glass was used.  For gem imitations, lead or flint glass with a high refractive index was used.  These imitations had a similar colour to that of the original, but certain physical properties such as hardness and lustre could not be satisfactorily imitated.  Therefore, it became the dream of scientists such as Verneuil to fabricate imitation gemstones that really replicated genuine stones in every physical characteristic.  It was only towards the end of the 18th century, that French scientist, Verneuil successfully synthesized rubies at a commercial price.

Green terbium glass

The Verneuil process is known as the Flame Fusion Process.  It is today, still the most common process used for gemstone synthesis due to low production costs and high crystal growth rates. Large numbers of flame fusion gemstones like rubies, sapphires and spinels are readily available. The powdered ingredients are fused together under a high temperature oxy-hydrogen flame. As the powder melts it crystallizes in successive layers. The curved growth layers are important identification features and can be observed under a 10x loupe or microscopic. Sometimes clouds of gas bubbles are visible.

Synthetically produced crystals are NOT classed as imitations by the gem trade, but rather as a separate group, in addition to natural gems.  In the trade, they are referred to as “synthetic”.

Synthetic gemstones

The first man-made gemstones appeared in the early 19th century.  It was only in 1910, when Verneuli successfully produced rubies (red corundum), sapphire (blue corundum) and diamondite that these synthetics became economically viable.  By 1926 synthetic spinels with excellent colour of other gemstones such as aquamarine, tourmaline and blue zircon were produced and are still used today.

Synthetic Aquamarine

The first synthetic emerald was produced in the 1930’s in the USA.  Synthetic emeralds are produced using either flux fusion or hydrothermal methods (high temperature, high pressure water system).  The flux fusion technique is rarely used in fashion jewellery or industrial applications due to very high production costs. This technique also poses the greatest threat to the gemstone trade as flux grown rubies have inclusion patterns that very closely mimic the patterns seen in natural counterparts.  By dissolving ingredients into molten fluids and crystallizing them under controlled conditions, the desired gemstone mineral is produced.

There is no synthetic gemstone on the market today that has had a greater impact n the jewellery trade than Cubic Zirconia.  Cubic Zirconia (CZ) came onto the market around 1978.  The first CZ was made in Russia as an optical stimulant used in their lazer industry.  CZ is made using microwave technology which generate the intense heat required to melt and re-crystalise Zirconium Oxide that has stablilized with Calcium or Yttrium in a process called skull melting.

A word on Cubic Zirconia

Cubic Zirconia is a diamond simulant, not a synthetic diamond. The latter, are diamonds that have been produced in a laboratory rather than naturally occurring, by such companies as General Electric and Mitsubishi.

Cubic Zirconia

A simulant, simply put, is a natural or in the case of Cubic Zirconia a synthetic material that can imitate a natural gemstone.  A successful simulant needs to exhibit similar properties to the material it is intended to simulate. In the case of a diamond simulant it needs to be hard (diamond has a hardness of 10 on the Mohs scale), display excellent brilliance, lustre and fire, and have a colour (or lack of colour) similar to the diamond it is impersonating.

For more information on synthetic and natural gemstones, and gemstone sales in South Africa, please go to our website and online store.  www.touchstonegems.co.za

Planetary Gemology - A monthy investigation of the metaphysical quality of gemstones

Recently, while looking for something to read, I stumbled across The Handbook of Planetary Gemology which is written by Richard S Brown and dedicated to His Divine Grace Srila A.C. Bhaktivedanta Swami Prabhupada.  I have always held a certain amount of fascination for astrology, horoscopes and birthstones and their influences on our lives.  I have therefore decided to give you some insight into the mystical powers of gemstones and how they can influence the well-being of their owners.

Yellow Sapphire

Each month, I will write a short blog on the power of it's birthstone.  Just like an astrological horoscope charts the location of the planets at your time of birth to determine your birth sign, each planet rules over one or more gemstones and these auspicious gems can help remove obstructions in various areas of our life by appeasing the destructive forces that these planets have on us.

I will provide a short translation of the Vedic Text which is a description of how the gem seeds were formed from the body of the demon Vala which is basically the standard by which the ancients established the value of a gemstone, it's identity and talisman properties.

Citrine

The astrological properties for Citrine and Imperial (Golden ) Topaz is the same as Yellow Sapphire, so the following planetary and astrological characteristics are for Yellow Sapphire.

PLANET	Jupiter
SIGN	Sagittarius
HERB	Ficus Religiosa
NUMBER	3
SYMBOL	2+
COSMIC COLOUR	Light Blue
ELEMENT	Ether
SENSE	Sound
BODY ORGAN	Ears
COSMIC FORCE	Neutral
ANATOMICAL SYSTEM	Fat
CHAKRA	2nd, Ajna
DAY	Thursday
TIME	One hour before sunset
SPECIAL INFLUENCES	Promotes general wellbeing and spirituality. Helpful in pregnancy, childbirth and marriage. Prevents jaundice and liver disease

Characteristics of the ruling planet:  Jupiter

Jupiter is positive so individuals will display grace and tact during their Jupiter period.  They acquire inner grace which radiates as confidence in order to attain their goals.  As Jupiter rules Sagittarius(fire) and Pisces (water) respectively, the constant journey seeking a spiritual home makes individuals prosperous in material things.  Jupiter is incompatible with Mercury and Venus.

Citrine, Golden Topaz and Yellow Sapphire should not be used with emerald or diamonds.  Specifically designed talismans and accent stones are an exception to this principle.

Colours in relation to social divisions:

Pale/colourless:  intellectual or priestly division
Orange overtones: administrative or military division
Yellow overtones: trade or farming division
Green overtones: clerical or labouring division

Notable Gemstone Quotes

The leading line from the movie "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes"

Men grow cold,
As girls grow old,
And we all lose our charms in the end.
But square-cut or pear-shaped,
These rocks don't loose their shape.
Diamonds are a girl's best friend.
Diamonds Are A Girl's Best Friend!


Vicky Shek, Christie's Hong Kong Jewelry Division
New Tang Dynasty Television

"After the crisis from last year onwards, I found that more collectors are looking for top quality jewellery and diamonds for the investment to keep the value and also for sale. So for rare stones, even  pink, yellow, blue red, green - these rare stones are very popular in this market."

 Tim Dabson, a DeBeers executive director

“We know people over 55 treasure diamonds but that's not so clear for the Ipod generation."

Jeweller Myles Mindham

"When times are tough, hard assets like diamonds are in greater demand because they will hold their value when inflation hits – and it will hit.”

Anonymous

"Did anyone notice the Burma ruby in the movie Expendables? Wow!"


Roni Rubinov, jeweller

"It's about the trust that was destroyed by the crisis. People are realizing now they need to have something tangible, not just a piece of paper."

Newsobserver Staff

"Indians thought of butterflies as gemstones of the gods, tossed from the heavens to spread beauty."

German jeweller Christian Hemmerle

"Red spinel gemstones are reminiscent of Queen Elizabeth's Timur Ruby."

Russel Shor
Gems and Gemology

"The European Union enacted its own ban on Burmese gems, followed in 2008 by a tightening of the U.S. measure that effectively banned all Burmese ruby and jadeite imports regardless of where they were cut. As a result, more than 50 ruby mines closed down in Myanmar, while buying by foreign dealers reportedly fell by more than half in the latter part of 2008."

Adnan Khan
The Journey of a Gemstone

"The key to appreciating a gemstone is to hold it in your hands, turn it to see the light dance as it refracts through the complex internal chemistry, and – if you want to wax esoteric about it – feel its energy."


Dr Michael Krzemnicki, director of the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF)

"Spinel could be the hot trend of 2010 and beyond, and retail jewellers should be looking to stock more pieces using the gemstone,. Spinels are rarely treated. Heating experiments on spinels show no or only limited enhancement, apart from clarifying some of its turbidity. For me it is a very great pleasure that this stone is a very natural product."

Everything you need to know about Citrine, the other birthstone for November

Citrine is a  popular and affordable member of the Quartz group (which includes Amethyst). The name is a derivation of the French word, for the lemon yellow colour that natural Citrines exhibit. Today though most commercial Citrines are actually heat treated Amethysts and are more of a golden than lemon yellow colour. Depending on the source deposit the heat treatment can produce  colours from yellow to gold to orange brown and red shades of transparent quartz. The final result being dependent on the level of heat applied. In ancient times, Citrine was carried as a talisman against the venom of snakes and scorpions. Today they are known in some cultures as the merchant's stone and are associated with success and prosperity.

Citrine 10x10 Square, 4.83 carats

The causal element  that imbibes natural quartz with its lemon yellow colour is a trace amount of Iron (approximately 40ppm). Natural (untreated) citrines are mostly a  pale lemon yellow to golden yellow colour, but recent demand has meant that almost all of the commercially available stones are now heat treated Amethyst, which exhibit a reddish tint to the overall yellow to golden hue of the stones.
Purchasing Citrine

Colour
While natural Citrine is much preferred over the Citrine produced by heat-treating amethyst, it is often hard to source such material as much of the rough currently available, is pre treated at source before it enters the cutting process. Paler more lemon yellow colours are preferable over the darker red tinted treated stones. Although personal preference is always the most important guide.

Citrine 10x5 Marquise, 0.90 carats

Clarity
Citrine, like Amethyst is an abundant member of the quartz group, and as such only  transparent examples  with excellent clarity, should be considered for facetted stones. A lower transparency can be considered for en cabochon cut stones

Cut
Citrines come in a wide range of calibrated shapes and sizes, constrained to a certain extent by the level of colour banding or zoning present in the stone. Portuguese cuts have become popular in recent years due to the additional brilliance added by the extra facets, which allow for more highly zoned stones to appear as consistent colours.
Mineable Deposits

The most important deposits of natural citrine currently in production occur in Brazil and Madagascar. Other locations include Argentina, Myanmar (Burma), Namibia, Russia, Scotland, Spain and the United States.

Citrine - Common Treatments
Natural Citrine is untreated and will typically exhibit some colour zoning, which can be partially dissipated with moderate heating. Most commercially available Citrine in the market have been produced by heat-treating Amethyst. Brazilian Amethyst will turns a light yellow colour at 878oF/470oC, and then a dark yellow to red brown at 1022-1040oF/550-560oC.
Important & Famous Citrine

While the piece in question has long been lost in the sands of time, around 1300 B.C the bejeweled breastplate of Aaron, contained a Citrine representing one of the 12 tribes (Naphtali) of Israel  - Exodus 28:15-30


Citrine is the birthstone for November, sharing this position with Topaz